What is drying oil? Description, characteristics, scope and price of drying oil

"I want the ships not to sink in the blue sea." The hero’s desire of a Soviet-era song is not enough. In the old days, ships helped to stay afloat drying oil. She smeared the boards of ships, protecting them from the destructive action of water.

In addition, drying oil repelled parasites from wood, which eat cellulose into dust. The title itself speaks about the significance of the article’s heroine. The term is Greek and is given to the substance by the Greeks too, even before our era. The word is translated as "oil". Why? About this and not only, further.

Where is drying oil used?

Drying oil for wood - The main application of the heroine of the article. Impregnating cellulose fibers, the oily liquid not only protects them from decay, fungi and insects, but also decorates them.

The color of the mixture is transmitted to the wood, emphasizing its structure. In other words, buy drying oil possible as a stain. The only difference is that classic stains are soluble in water and invented in the 19th century. Drying oil is not diluted with water and is known to mankind for millennia.

Metal products are also covered with linseed oil. Alloys, like wood, protect against moisture. It oxidizes metals. This is the cause of rust. Some alloys are not subject to it, for example, noble groups, aluminum and zinc.

But non-galvanized steel deteriorates from atmospheric moisture. Forming a waterproof film on the metal surface, drying oil extends the service life of products from it.

In the interior decoration consumption of drying oil laid as a primer. This is the name of the compositions applied to the walls prepared for the finish layer, for example, painting.

Covering the plastered planes with a dense film, drying oil blocks the penetration of pigments into the walls. As a result, the whiteness of the finishing plaster is preserved and the paint consumption is reduced.

True, the savings are imaginary. Natural drying oil road. For each square meter of plastered walls it takes 80-150 milliliters of an oily mixture. This is when priming in 1 coat. It is recommended to apply varnish in 2 layers.

When painting with drying oil, you can cover any porous surface, even a sponge. Paint adheres better to the oily film. The problem is that the final coating does not hide the pungent odor of drying oil.

Its “aroma” erodes for several days. Accelerate the process allow placed in the bucket of water in the room. By the way, a pungent odor is characteristic only of compositional drying oil. What the concept means is described in the next chapter.

As an additive, drying oil is used in oil paints and putties. The latter can be made at home using crushed chalk, gypsum and wood glue. Get the most natural and reliable composition.

Drying oil protects wooden surfaces from moisture and rot

The drying oil in it is a bonding agent. By tying loose masses, the oily substance facilitates the application of putty and its setting with the surface. Plus, drying oil blocks the development of mold on a layer of chalk and gypsum. Plaster and putty fungi affect, like wood.

Types of drying oil

• Natural drying oil was the one and only until the 20th century. But, with the advent of more effective and affordable alternatives, the heroine of the article moved to second roles. In the 21st century, for example, glaze primers are often bought.

They added polymers derived from petroleum products. However, and drying oil is not all natural. “Fighting” for a market share, the oily mixture has become multifaceted. We will understand in modern forms:

• Composite drying oil. Its composition is dominated by oil-polymer resins. Their evaporation is the cause of the sharp smell of drying oil and, at the same time, harm to the body. But, composite mixtures are available, competing in price with alternative ones.

Only the latter have GOSTs. For composite drying oil, there is no state standard. Manufacturers rely only on the technical condition. Therefore, the “recipe” of category mixtures is “cat in a poke”.

So that he does not “scratch” composite composite drying oils are forbidden to use indoors. The compositions are intended exclusively for outdoor work, for example, the protection of courtyard arbors.

• Oksol. A counterweight combined olif it is made in accordance with GOST under the number "190-78". Vegetable oils in mixtures 55%. In most formulations, however, sunflower appears. Linen drying oil only 25% of the total output.

About 40% of white spirit and 5-10% of desiccant are added to the oils in the mixtures. Under the last concept are metal salts that accelerate the solidification of drying oils. In other words, Oksol is an improved version of the usual mixture of oils.

The novelty dries faster and is easier to apply and costs less. The smell of Oksol is slightly sharper than that of natural. This is the cause of the white spirit solvent. It contains aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons. That is, there is an oil component in Oksol.

Natural drying oil. Of vegetable oils is 97%. Use flaxseed, sunflower or hemp marc. Desiccant in mixtures of the group is only 3%. Regulates proportions GOST.

Drying oil “Submits” to the regulation under the number “7931-76”. It also contains a limitation on the use of natural mixtures. They are suitable only for internal work.

Let's return to the discussion of synthetic drying oil. She has subspecies, as well as natural. As composites, not only resins are used, but also naphthenic acid salts and shale oil.

Therefore, on the shelves of shops there are polydiene, ethinole, synthol and shale drying oils. Only the latter gives an atmosphere-resistant film. It's about a coating that can withstand aggressive environments.

Keeping aesthetics and performance. Therefore, it is shale drying oil that is best for outdoor work, although it does not differ in naturalness.

Price drying oil and reviews about it

All-natural drying oil is a rare offer. Production is reduced due to minimal demand, and that, in turn, is due to the price tag. So, for a bottle of flaxseed mixture with a volume of 1.8 liters, they ask at least 700 rubles. A similar amount of Oksoli costs 300-400 rubles, and for synthetics they ask for only 180-230 rubles.

You can save on large volumes. So, a 10-liter flask with Oksol costs 1,000-1,300 rubles. But, saving, as you know, is imaginary. Find out if it's good drying oil. Price - is the second question.

Let's start with a review of natural linseed oil linseed oil. This was used by a certain Kievlianin. His comment can be found on the forum "Dryse. Who can say anything? ”

So, the Kievite writes: - “I have processed country windows. The first layer was coated with a hot mixture. The second put cold. It looks like varnish. 4 years have passed, and my shutters in the sun and near the sea as new. ”

The father of the formansky with the nickname TT covered with linseed oil on the lining of a wooden house. Left disappointment. TT writes: - “For 5 years it has not dried up, personally tore it off with a spatula and licked. Now, ironically, I am selling linseed oil, I realized that my father took bad synthetics. Now I know which one to take). ”

In the old days there was a composition of drying oil, which is not available to contemporaries. The oils were cooked with molten amber. The result was not so much drying oil as lacquer.

Precious coating was distributed in Russian villages, especially near Kaliningrad. It is no secret that amber deposits are being developed there.

There is debate about whether they are the largest in the world, but we will not dispute the fact of the only place where the gem is mined by quarry metol. Outside Russia, amber is collected in placers, usually along the banks of rivers and seas.

Natural

This option is considered the most suitable if it is planned to operate near people or in their place of direct residence. The color tint turns out to be light yellow, there is no precipitate in the container itself, so this drying oil is already ready for use from the factory. It dries longer than others. Usually linseed oil produced according to GOST, and, according to it, it should have the following characteristics:

• The composition should be no more than 3 percent desiccant, the remaining mass fraction is oil.
• Drying oil is odorless, has no irritating effect on humans.
• Drying temperature not lower than 22 degrees. If the temperature is lower, the drying time may be delayed. The average drying time is at least 1 hour.
• The film density is at least 0.95 grams per cubic meter.
• The amount of phosphorus-containing elements should be no more than 0.015%.

Oksol

Unlike the previous, oxol is drying oil for wood, which you eat half consists of natural oils. Otherwise, these are solvents, such as desiccants, the mass fraction of which can reach 55 percent of the total composition. Such material costs less, which is beneficial for most buyers.

Drying oil

The characteristics of the semi-manual drying oil are similar to the natural, but only the scope is excellent. To simplify, manufacturers came up with three main brands of drying oils, each of which is used individually:

• Marking B. This composition is rarely used independently and is mainly used for diluting paints and varnishes.
• Marking PV. This material is used to dilute the putty.
• Marking SM. It is used for the preparation of paint and varnish impregnations used for painting the ceiling.

It is worth noting that drying oil does not have high mechanical resistance. This means that it is not suitable for application to the floor, because here, with intensive walking, it will be erased from shoes. It is best, when applying such drying oil, to ventilate the room, since its pungent smell can be unpleasant for people living in the house. It is specific, therefore it can cause an allergy, it erodes for a long time.

Other species

This includes combined drying oilcomposite and synthetic. Their main difference is the replacement of natural oil with impurities and synthetics. This gives a different color to the linseed oil, allows it to dry faster, better resist the effects of the mechanical environment. The material is individual, therefore, you need to carefully read the instructions for use.

Table 1. Indicators of oil drying oil.

Semi-natural drying oil

Representatives of this species also got their second name "oxol", technologically they are also made from oils, but subjected to oxidation, with the addition of solvents and desiccants. At the same time, the percentage of oil is 55%, the solvent (the most common white spirit) is at least 40%. The liquid due to this composition has a rather unpleasant and pungent odor, which can hold for some time even after drying.

At cost, the oxide is much more economical than natural, but it has practically no differences in basic properties and is almost identical in appearance.

The most appreciated is the oxide made from flax oil - the film of such a product is characterized by hardness, elasticity, water resistance and, which is noteworthy, the greatest durability.

To make it even cheaper, they also produce from sunflower oil, but its film is much lower in characteristics than from flax oil.

Combined drying oil

This type of drying oil is almost identical to semi-natural, except for the percentage: the percentage of oil is about 70% and 30% remains on the solvent. They are obtained by polymerization and dehydration of drying and semi-drying oils. The main direction for the use of this product is the production of thick-grated paints. Grades K-2, 3, 4, 5 are industrially produced. The time of complete drying does not exceed 24 hours.

Table 2. Indicators of combined drying oil.

Alkyd drying oil

Thermochemical processing of semi-drying and non-drying oils gives the resulting drying ability as a result of alkyd drying oil. In addition, in terms of the combination of properties, it has higher values ​​in hardness, durability, water resistance, and weather resistance than drying oils. Due to this, this species is considered as more promising, since it allows to reduce the cost of vegetable oil for production. The only drawback can be called thickening during storage, due to the fact that free fatty acids, of which a large amount react with mineral pigments and insoluble metal soaps appear. This does not allow the use of the product for the manufacture of thick-grated paint, but does not interfere with mass use for their dilution to the desired consistency.

Synthetic drying oils

This species is currently considered the cheapest and this is what made it quite widely used. After all, the main component is not natural oil or resin, but their substitutes, most often - a variety of products obtained during the processing of oil. The composition of such drying oils can be different, since they are produced not on the basis of GOST, but according to technical conditions. In their appearance, they also differ significantly - the color is often light, transparency is much higher than that of compositions based on oil. Also, a very sharp smell and a longer drying process can be attributed to the minuses. The most common representatives are oil shale and, of course, ethanol.

Oil shale oil looks like a liquid of a darkish color, as was noted, there is a pungent odor and is a derivative of the process of oxidation of shale oil with further dissolution in xylene. Dries a little more than a day. It has good weather resistance. The main direction of use is dark tinting, dilution of paints to the required consistency, which are mainly used for work on the street and sometimes indoors for painting surfaces of their metal, wood and coated with plaster.It is forbidden to use this drying oil for drawing on sexual materials and objects used in everyday life.

On the contrary, drying oil ethinol looks like a clear liquid of a light tone, with the same specific smell and is made from waste obtained in the manufacture of chloroprene rubber.

After application, the film dries quickly, glistens, is very hard, resistant to alkali and acid, but, unfortunately, with low weather resistance.

Often this type is used as an additive to other drying oils, but not more than 15%. The main direction was the manufacture on its basis of paint and primer for metal.

Table 3. Indicators of synthetic drying oil.

Application of drying oil

Work procedure

1. Before starting work, it is required to carry out cleaning and degreasing of the treated surface.
2. If a composition on a semi-natural varnish is used in the work, then application is recommended to be done only on a dry surface.
3. Using drying oil and paint products based on it, it is recommended to apply with a brush, roller or spray gun.

The average working consumption when using semi-natural drying oil is from 150 to 200 g. per cubic meter. As already noted, the drying time during natural drying will take no more than a day.

Storage drying oil

Based on the fact that the composition of drying oil includes oil and solvents, it belongs to explosive and fire hazardous materials, therefore, in the room where the work is carried out, it is necessary to ensure natural ventilation or forced ventilation equipment in explosion-proof design. In case of contact with human skin surfaces, it is necessary to erase and rinse well with soapy water. When storing drying oil, it is required to ensure that the container is tightly closed and protected from moisture and sunlight, and is far from the fires and electrical appliances. When thickening, it is allowed to dilute drying oil with any solvent available to you, suitable for oil paints in a ratio of 1:10.

Selection of drying oils

Before you buy oil, you need to carefully consider what is in the tank. First, you should determine by color whether it matches the declared type of product. In addition, it is worthwhile to carefully read the description of the components and check whether it complies with GOST if you purchase semi-natural or natural drying oil. They will have a certificate of conformity, and compositional - only hygienic. In general, it is worthwhile to be careful when using the latter, since it is toxic and it is important to note that it should not contain any oil residues (the so-called fuse) and osprey (oil refining residues), otherwise the drying process will become endless. And finally, it should be noted - carefully inspect the liquid for homogeneity, sediment or mechanical particles should not be present.

Application of drying oils

As already noted, the main purpose of these products is to process various surfaces, they are also indispensable in the manufacture of paints. If you focus on surface treatment, then drying oil for wood is great. It is used both for impregnation of products, and in general walls. But for external work it is recommended to apply the varnish only for preparation before further painting. And the use of oxols or alkyd drying oils will be more optimal. Natural is better suited for internal work (due to environmental friendliness and lack of smell) and to obtain the desired consistency of colors.

Almost all types are involved in the manufacture of paints. So, natural becomes the basis for thick-worn, and alkyd excellent basis for oil. Only composite is not used due to poor quality.

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Wood coating

Fashion for natural materials in construction, the manufacture of furniture, interior decoration has already become a tradition. And it is wood that continues to remain in trend due to its environmental and aesthetic properties. But, unlike artificial materials, wooden coatings and structures can deteriorate under the influence of adverse environmental factors, such as moisture, direct sunlight.

Application area

Drying oil is used in finishing. At the same time, it is used for coloring wood. It is worth considering that drying oil is very different from varnish. The first is the film that forms on the surface. Secondly, drying oil does not raise the wood fibers at all, which does not require additional processing. Thirdly, it better retains its properties over the years.

That is why with its help it is customary to finish the floor and walls. Only in the case of flooring, exactly natural drying oil, because it is better than others able to resist stress when walking intensively. As for the issues of wall decoration, the drying oil is unique here. It is convenient to use here because you can add various pigment shades, which will diversify the walls, achieve ideal results.

Today there are examples and varieties of drying oil, which can be used not only for direct contact with the tree. For example, it is often used to protect metal from rust, covering the surface of metal structures. It is applied to walls that are plastered, which allows it to be used as a primer.

Consumption

Everyone who is going to use drying oil for painting wood, including floors, ceilings, walls and other surfaces, is interested in the question of what consumption will be during operation and how much drying oil? Everything here is purely individual. Even if it says on the package that about 100 grams of raw materials will be used per square meter, you should always consider the stock that needs to be pledged at the time of purchase of about 30%. This is due to the preparation of the surface on which you will apply the drying oil.

To get the result close to the ideal value, you need to primer the surface. This applies to the wooden structure, since the fibers are often clogged with dust, which leads to cost overruns. Therefore, if you have euro lining, imitation of timber, logs and others in wooden surfaces, then perform additional priming of the surface.

If you paint plywood, then the consumption will be minimal. Its surface is smooth, so it does not particularly absorb. To reduce costs in all other cases, use preparatory oils. They fill the pores of the wood, create the effect of smoothness, which will save up to 30% of the cost on varnish.

Learn the drying oil you buy. If it is made of natural materials, it most likely has an average density. This will make it liquid, diluting with the necessary amount of solvent. Such drying oil will be applied sparingly. Materials containing synthetics often dry faster, but their consumption is also not small.

Operating principle

If you leave vegetable oils in the air, then under the influence of oxygen, heat and light, they thicken. In a thinner layer, they dry out and turn into a semi-solid mixture. This feature is inherent in oils, which include fatty acids such as linoleic and linolenic. The more acids, the higher the drying property of the oils. The amount of fatty acids in different oils varies:

• flaxseed - 80%,
• hemp - 70%
• sunflower, poppy, nut - from 30 to 50%,
• olive - 40%.

Mineral oils do not contain fatty acids, therefore, do not have the properties of drying in the open air.

Natural Vegetable Oils oxidize very slowlyalthough some are high in linoleic acid. To shorten the drying time of the oil, they are treated and a metal compound - desiccants - is added to the composition. Metal salts contribute to faster drying. Thus, depending on the composition, drying oil dries out within 6–36 hours after application and forms a solid film on the surface. Most often, modern solutions dry during the day.

Semi-natural (oxol)

The composition includes natural oils, which are contained in smaller quantities. Usually it is 55% of the total volume. Dilute the base with solvent and standard desiccants. Oxol belongs to a lower price category than others.

Oxol is customary to label, so in hardware stores The following brands can be purchased:

• marking B - can be used as an additive to paints and varnishes for external painting,
• PV brand - for the preparation of putties,
• SM brand - dilute the primer for the treatment of walls and ceilings.

Oxide is not suitable for processing flooring made of wood, since with constant mechanical stress it will be destroyed. And also the solvent contained in a large amount gives a pungent odor to the material. The specific aroma does not weather for a long time. Finishing is necessary because the surface treated with oxide quickly wears out and deteriorates.

Combined

This type is obtained by the oxidation of natural oils (semi-drying and drying), for example, linseed, castor, cotton. The ratio of solvent to oil is 30: 70%.

Combined drying oil is rarely used for finishing work. It is mainly used for the manufacture of paints (oil). Grades of this oil:

• K 2, K 4, K 12 - used for interior decoration,
• K 3, K 5 - used for external work, for example, for the treatment of concrete facades, basement parts.

Distribution received brand K3 and K2. The composition of these drying oils includes a solvent, a small part of desiccants and oils. The liquid is clear and has a slight tint. The coating layer dries up during the day. K3 soon enough creates a dense film. Therefore, to get an even coverage, you need to work with it quickly.

Combined drying oil is most often used for coating small wood parts. For this, oil paints are brought to her desired consistency. The K2 brand has a darker shade and is intended for the treatment of ceilings and walls.

Synthetic

The main difference from other species - This is a replacement for vegetable oils with synthetic oils. For this type there are no characteristics according to GOST. All norms of ratios of substances are regulated by TU norms. Typically, such drying oils are not cheap according to GOST, respectively, and the quality is much lower than other types. Protective and water repellent properties are very low.

Such a coating quickly becomes unusable under external influences. Synthetic oil has a very sharp chemical smell, so their use indoors is highly undesirable. This oil can cause serious health damage. It is mainly used for the production of putty and plaster mixes.

Two exceptional varieties of synthetic drying oil are distinguished:

They are produced based on the processing of natural oils and various resins. Paints diluted with this drying oil form a dense and even layer. The strength of the coating is superior to natural and semi-natural drying oils.

Compositional

The composition includes natural oxidized oils and gasoline diluted with varnish (rosin). Oil can be either one or several. Mostly rapeseed, corn, cottonseed oil are added.

Oil-rubber drying oil is the most used in the work. This species there are two brands, which differ from each other in composition:

• K1 based on rubber. It is used for painting work both indoors and outdoors,
• MK-2 is used as a primer. They treat the surface before applying the paint directly.

How to use drying oil

Even children can handle the application of drying oil. This will allow you to use them as your assistants in decorating the premises inside and out. You buy a drying oil in a container that is clogged. Before opening the lid, you thoroughly shake the drying oil, then pour it into a more convenient container, since it is simply impossible to take the drying oil out of the can with a narrow neck.

Next, take a brush of the required size and apply drying oil to a wooden surface. Drying oil must be carefully rubbed into the wood so that it penetrates deep into the pores. Buying cheap compositions, you may not immediately achieve the desired result.

Therefore, drying oil may have to be applied in a second layer. Be prepared for this and carefully read the instructions, since the second coat can be applied only after complete drying. In this case, the drying oil should not stick to the hands.

In the process, be sure to use personal protective equipment, as well as outer clothing, which is not a pity. Drying oil is quite difficult to wash by hand. When buying materials from unknown manufacturers, be prepared for a pungent odor. That is why before operating the room, painting the walls with linseed oil, you need to carefully check everything.

How to dilute drying oil?

When they just bought drying oil in a store, they have never opened a jar yet, just enough to carefully shake it. This will allow the contents to shake. But, there are times when drying oil stood on a shelf for a long time. That is why it cannot be used immediately, since it has hardened. It can harden if the packaging is not tight.

To dilute it to the desired state, it is recommended to add only natural solvents. It can be both solvents for oil paints, and white spirit, turpentine, nefras, as well as other compounds. If the condition of drying oil is very hardened, then you can pour it with a natural solvent for the night, after which, in the morning, mix everything thoroughly and start operation.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any material, drying oil has its advantages and disadvantages. For example, the benefits include a completely natural structure. This applies to natural varieties of drying oil, as they are made from linseed oil.

As for those options where artificial impurities are added, they are also completely harmless and do not affect human health from a negative point of view. Application of drying oils possible in various industries, including with direct contact with people.

On sale there is great freedom of choice of various drying oils, where everyone will choose the right option for themselves.There are those that are represented by their natural color, others, on the contrary, can be used with various additives, which allows you to achieve exquisite shades and interesting relief of the tree.

Others, on the contrary, are used to decorate walls with a plastered surface. Preparatory materials are also on sale. This is a drying oil used to breed some paints and varnishes, and also used for priming. All this allows us to form a great advantage, such as freedom of choice.

Means for coloring are quite easy to apply. They took a brush, shook the bottle, poured the contents into a deep container. Next, you need to apply the composition to a tree or other surface. This is done simply, so you can do the work yourself. Importantly, do not forget about personal protective equipment.

Wood processing products are always freely available. Therefore, even if you bought a smaller volume, and it was not enough to paint a given area, you can always go and buy more. Even if you have not found the exact same manufacturer, you will buy a different composition, similar in quality and shade. In fact, you almost did not notice any differences.

As for the shortcomings, they are few, but they are. The most important is the risk of buying a low-quality product. This applies to cheap varieties of drying oil, where the price does not at all correspond to high quality.

Such compositions quickly fade away, and you have to wear the color again. In addition, they have a strong toxic odor, which can lead to dizziness. In the process of painting and in the process of living in such a room, it is necessary to ventilate the room quite often.

Service life is limited. This is not to say that drying oil in 2 weeks, a month or six months will come to naught, but if you use it to decorate rooms outside, then be prepared to renew the surface in a year or a couple of years.

Like any other impregnation, it still burns out, which requires updating it. In any case, the material is inexpensive, so the update is available to everyone, both on a private scale and in the scale of capital construction. The disadvantages include deep penetration into the structure of the tree. Because of this, the consumption increases, which requires preliminary preparation of lumber.

It is necessary not only to carefully grind it, but to use oil impregnations, which will save up to 30% of the composition. Recommended proper storage of drying oil, where the tightness of the package should be observed.

Features

In Soviet times, drying oil was almost the only tool that was used to process wooden buildings and individual products. Now the market for materials is much higher, the industry offers a large selection of more modern and practical coatings. However, admirers of drying oil exist to this day.

The use of drying oil can significantly increase the durability of wooden structures, which is especially true for rafters, since they are heavily exposed to water and condensate.

In addition, impregnation with this composition effectively protects the coating from temperature fluctuations, high humidity and damaging atmospheric influences of all types.

When processing wood with drying oil, a film is formed on it, which is solid, but at the same time plastic. It is she who protects the material from external adverse effects, as well as from the appearance of mold and the growth of fungus. It is linseed oil that will prevent wood decay, and in addition, its use significantly minimizes the consumption of enamels and paintwhich can be used as a finishing finishing material. As a rule, drying oil is applied in 2-3 layers, and then only painted with paints.

Another undoubted advantage of the solution is its low price and availability. Mostly, drying oil is taken for interior decorating, but use in an open space determines only a temporary effect, which requires mandatory coating with paints or varnishing in the future.

Specifications

The mechanism of action of drying oil is based on the physical properties of its constituent components.

If vegetable oil is applied to any surface and left in fresh air, then under the influence of heat, sunlight and oxygen, it begins to thicken. If the oil is applied in a thin layer, it dries and forms a semi-solid composition. This quality is characteristic of such oils, the main component of which are linolenic and linoleic acids. Moreover, the higher the concentration of these acids, the more pronounced they exhibit a solidification property.

In different types of oils, the content of these components usually varies. For example, they account for 80% in linseed oil, 70% in hempseed, but their content in sunflower and nut oil is from 30 to 45%, and in olive oil they make up 40%.

Mineral-based oils do not have any fatty acids in their composition, due to which they do not dry out in air.

However, in its natural form without heat treatment, vegetable oils are oxidized quite rarely, even if fatty acids are present in a significant amount in them. That's why to stabilize the wood and reduce the drying period, the composition is processed and driers are introduced into it - various metal salts, which significantly reduce the solidification time of the oil. Thanks to this composition, drying oil can dry from 6 to 36 hours after application, but, as a rule, modern products harden in a day.

The shelf life of any type of drying oil is at least 3 years.